Yogyakarta, Indonesia - A visit to the Kraton

It would be a travesty to go to Yogya without visiting Kraton Ngayogyakarta Hadiningrat. It is the heart and soul of a city steeped in tradition, culture and heritage. Our flight back was at 5.15pm, leaving ample time to strike this off my list. Some information on the Kraton:

         Address: Jl. Rotowijayan 1, Yogyakarta 55133
         Phone: (0274) 373 721
         Opening Hours: 08:00 - 14:00 p.m (Friday only until 1pm)
         Admission:
         ·         Rp. 3,000 (Tepas Kaprajuritan)
         ·         Rp. 5,000 (Tepas Pariwisata)
         ·         Camera/video permit: Rp. 1,000

It is worth noting that the Kraton has 2 entrances. The first is in Tepas Keprajuritan (in front of Alun-Alun Utara), and  the second in Regol Keben. If entering from Tepas Keprajuritan, visitors can only enter Bangsal Pagelaran and Siti Hinggil and see a collection of some palace carriages. If entering from Regol Keben, visitors can enter Sri Manganti complex and Kedaton where there is Bangsal Kencono that is the main hall of the kingdom. I have read accounts of visitors who felt cheated when they entered through the "wrong" entrance and thus managed to see only a fraction of the Kraton. From my experience, as you walk nearer to the Regol Keben entrance, you will be accosted by a number of locals who offered to take you to the Kraton entrance. Just firmly say no and find your own way.

Tickets bought at the counter entitled you to a tour guide. Ours was an elderly lady who seemed to have lived within the Kraton walls for most of her lives. I usually do not like tour guides but here I suppose its important to have one to get some context on what you see as there were not many labels and information boards.
     
The Kraton still serve as the current Sultan's Palace, so not all areas are accessible. Those open to the public concentrates mainly in Kedaton complex. First, you will come across Bangsal Sri Mangati which is the venue for Javanese cultural performances. Daily schedule of the performances:

·         Monday - Tuesday: Gamelan music (starting at 10:00 a.m) 
·         Wednesday: Golek Menak puppet (starting at 10:00 a.m) 
·         Thursday: Dance Perfomance (starting at 10:00 a.m) 
·         Friday: Macapat (starting at 09:00 a.m) 
·         Saturday: Leather puppet (starting at 09:30 a.m) 
·         Sunday: Wayang Orang (man puppet) and dance performance (starting at 09:30 a.m)

We were lucky to be able to catch the Gamelan performance. Gamelan is an orchestra of gong, kendhang, seruling and other Javanese instruments. The one that we saw and heard was accompanied by voices of wiraswara (male singers) and sinden (female singers). The wiraswara and sinden sat on the floor in rows behind the respective instruments and there was something very melancholic about their expressions. Their eyes were full of depth, as if you could glean stories from days long gone, of ancient kingdoms and medieval empires. As for the blend of the gamelan music and soulful voices, it was hauntingly beautiful and almost hypnotic. Even a boy who was barely 4 years old was enthralled by it.

Our tour guide also showed us other highlights of the Kraton: Bangsal Kencono (Golden Pavillion) which was the main hall and still used for official ceremonies, another pavillion where antique gamelan instruments and heirlooms of the Sultanate were displayed and Museum Sri Sultan Hamangkubuwono XI showcasing the Sultan's personal effects, photos and gifts received. 

An integral part of the Kraton is  the Abdi Dalem, i.e. royal retainers who work at the Palace and who seem to devote their lives to the Sultanate and all that it stands for. Groups of them could be seen sitting cross-legged and chanting at various corners of the Kraton.

Outside the Kraton, andong (horse carts) and beca waited for customers. Which kid could resist a ride on a cart pulled by horses and I also wanted to reward Snufkin for being (relatively) patient in the museum. So we found ourselves on an Andong. Our horse clip-clopped its way through the backstreets of Yogya and again I was reminded at how amazing it was that cars, motorbikes, bicycles, beca and horses can all be on the roads at the same time in an organised chaos.

  

 

We were dropped off on Jl Malioboro for a last browse and lunch at one of the local restaurants in Malioboro Mall. Ironically the nasi timbel we had there was one of the best meals we have had throughout our Yogya trip. Travel lesson #1: You don't have to sit cross-legged on the floor in a spartan shop to eat authentic (and good) food.

By the end of our tavel, I only had the utmost respect for the beautiful people of Yogya for their dedication and their deep belief in the need to preserve their heritage and culture, a trait that some of us are fast losing. Snufkin is definitely too small to appreciate all this, but I am sure he enjoyed the rollercoaster jeep tour in Kinahrejo, the andong ride, listening to gamelan music and, of course, counting buddhas in Borobudur.

Call

Send SMS

Add to Skype

You'll need Skype CreditFree via Skype