Kerala, India - The Preparation

Travelling to India is not something that you can do without any preparation, and especially not when there are kids towing along. Ironically, for a place that requires the most preparation, I spent the least time preparing for it. Up until 6 May 2014, I had no idea where to go for our annual holiday in Snufkin's birthday month in June. Then, I was browsing through AirAsia destinations and saw Cochin and with a bit of research realised that this was the gateway to Kerala, one of the places in my bucket list.

An hour later, we found ourselves with flight tickets to Cochin for 21 May, which meant that I had 2 weeks to prepare for the trip. Naturally I was running around like a headless chicken trying to get the things below in order:

1) Itinerary

I had zero knowledge of things to see in Kerala. I only knew that I wanted to stay on a houseboat. But thanks to the forums on Tripadvisor and the power of Google, I decided within a couple of hours that our itinerary would include the hill station of Munnar, the backwaters of Allepey and of course Cochin itself.

Here's our Kerala itinerary for 6 days:

  22 May - Cochin Airport to Munnar. Overnight Munnar
  23 May - Overnight Munnar
  24 May - Munnar to Allepey. Overnight in an Allepey hotel
  25 May - Overnight Houseboat
  26 May - Allepey to Cochin. Overnight Cochin
  27 May - Fort Cochin. Night flight back to KL

There are many Kerala tour packages from Malaysia and I'm sure from other countries as well, but with a bit of research and with a car and driver at your disposal (see below), I think it's more satisfying to explore Kerala on your own.

2) Car rental

We sent requests for quotes to a few tour operators / car rental agencies and the best deal was from Experience Kerala - a chauffered Mahindra Logan for Rs1,750 per day (extra km payable ar Rs12/per km), inclusive of driver, fuel, toll, permit and parking fees.

The cheapest rate was for Tata Indica (at Rs1,600 per day) but this was a small hatchback car so comfort-wise we reckoned the Logan would be more suitable. Bear in mind that they usually do not have car seats for kids/babies but at the very least we made sure that there were seat belts at the back.

All responses from Arun at Experience Kerala were prompt and very courteous so we thought that we would have no problem with the car/driver. Alas, that was not the case (see here).

3) Visa

To apply for a tourist visa to India from Kuala Lumpur, the application form had to be completed electronically first at  http://indianvisaonline.gov.in/visa. We then printed the forms, signed, glued/stapled 2 inch x 2 inch photos in the designated boxes and submitted the forms at the Indian visa outsourced centre in KL (together with supporting documents - confirmed flight ticket, photocopy of passport). Address as follows:

IVS VMS Sdn. Bhd.
G-01, Ground Floor, Straits Trading Building, No. 2, Lebuh Pasar Besar, 50050 Kuala Lumpur.
Tel: 603 2692 2692 | Fax: 603 2698 2692

Only one of us needed to go to submit the application but I believe this is no longer possible. With effect from 2 June  2014, capture of biometric data is being made mandatory for all Indian visa applicants (exempted for applicants above 70 years and below 12 years old). This means that all non-exempted visa applicants need to personally be at the visa centre.

For a child, the supporting documents are the same with the addition of photocopy of birth cert and parents' passports. You would also need to have a stamp pad at home to insert his/her thumbprint in the form.

Make sure that your signature is exactly the same as your passport's and is within the box. I heard that they are quite sticky on the most trivial things.

4) Vaccination

We already had Hepatitis A and B jabs so the only additional one that we took was for Typhoid. I called a few clinics and apparently it was not that easily available. Damansara Specialist Hospital (DSH) was the easiest as they did not require for appointments to be made. The clinic for the vaccination was located on the Ground Floor next to the Pharmacy and it cost RM81 per jab.

Snufkin got his Typhoid jab from his pediatrician also in DSH. The doctor advised that food and drink wise, the child should be okay as long as we stick to the tour group. I restrained from telling him that we would be on our own.

I think it's also important to make sure your child's and your your health are in top form. We started taking probiotic supplement and grapeseed extract in the days leading to and during the trip itself.

5) Malaria and dengue prevention

There is a high risk of malaria in certain parts of India but based on my research, Kerala has a low risk of malaria. Which was just as good as I was not keen to give Snufkin anti-malarial tablets. Still, there was always dengue to avoid so we took all the necessary steps to limit our exposure to mosquito bites.

We only packed light-colured clothes (also good for the hot weather) and brought at least 5 types of mosquito repellant - Mosi Guard spray and roll-on, mosquito patch, Parakito repellant wrist band and Buds Organic Mozzie Clear lotion for Snufkin's face. We have used Parakito in Laos, Cambodia and India and found it to be quite effective.

6) Travel insurance

Travel insurance is always important, but more so for India. As usual, we got our travel insurance from Tokio Marine, 6 days for Zone 1 cost RM148 per family.

7) Medicine supply

Stomach upset is synonymous with travels in India. Prevention is always better than cure but if the former failed, it's comforting to know that you have the means to cure common ailments that might come your way, Delhi Belly included. Our DIY first-aid kit bulged more than usual, filled with plasters, antisepctic, oral dehydration salt, paracetemol and cough syrup (for adults and kids), lozenges, charcoal tablets, Gaviscon and prescribed antibiotics. It felt like being in a mobile Red Cross team.

We also brought enough hand sanitiser and anti-bacterial wipes to sanitise an entire village for a month.


By 14 May, I already got accommodation and points 1 to 6 sorted, but my paranoia went on an overdrive with more reading and research. I came across stories about flesh-eating bugs, landslide in Munnar, houseboat fire, houseboat sinking, diseases that went undiagnosed and other stories that could only fit in the annals of 100 Reasons Why You Should Not Travel. At least 2 friends regaled the stories of how they knew someone who went to India and came back with a disease and died. Okaaay.

But it was too late to turn back and I was glad we did not. Kerala turned out to be an enriching holiday, perfectly safe and suitable for young children and the time on the houseboat was one of my best travel experiences.

Such stuff as dreams are made on - Rapeseed fields in Kent, England

This is the start of a series of beautiful things we have seen in our travels. They are not necessarily famous monuments and buildings, designated UNESCO heritage sites or something that has to be included in a travel itinerary. But all of them are dream-like in nature and they made me pause and reflect and appreciate that beauty lies everywhere in this vast world. 

The photos in this post were taken while we were driving in Kent looking for a picnic site. It was May 2012 and soon we would be leaving Britain for good. Looking at these photos reminded me that a good spring day in Britain is as close to a fairy-tale as you could get.

The seeds of these Brassica plants are sown in September, produces yellow flowers in springtime and is harvested at the end of July. The harvested black seeds of the rapeseed plants are then used to produce rapeseed oil. It is hard to believe that something as mundane as oil and seeds originate from a sea of brilliant yellow flowers.

Driving down the country road in Kent

More rapeseed fields

Brunei - Bandar Seri Begawan in 2 days

Bandar Seri Begawan ("BSB") is not exactly known for abundance of attractions and things to see. Some would say that you can do BSB in a day. We were there for 2 days and suffice to say that even after going to the main places of interest, we still had plenty of time for swimming (and lazing) sessions at the hotel's pool. Here's how we did BSB:

1) Omar Ali Saifuddien mosque

On our first day, we walked from our hotel (Radisson) to the Omar Ali Saifuddien mosque. It looked near enough on the map but under the scorching sun I was wishing for a free shuttle service from the hotel. But it was worth the walk as it was one of the most beautiful mosques I've seen. I love the whiteness of the facade, the marble columns, arches and minaret and the dome made of pure gold which was glinting under the fierce afternoon sun. From a distance, it looked like it was floating on the man-made lagoon on which it was built.

The mosque provides robes for those wishing to enter (within the opening hours of course). It's certainly worth doing so as the interiors are as spectacular, if not more, as the facade. From the crystal chandeliers, the stained-glass walls, the intricate carvings and the fine woven carpets, you could see that no expense was spared.

The mosque by the lagoon



Ceiling of the Prayer Hall

Dusk in Bandar Seri Begawan

2) River Safari and Kampong Ayer tour

From the mosque, we walked past the Yayasan Sultan Haji Hassanal Bolkiah Complex to the jetty, from which we got a boat to take us to the mangroves for sightings of the proboscis monkeys as well as to Kampong Ayer. See here.

3) Jame' Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque

We started our 2nd day with a taxi ride to the Jame' Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque. It's located on Jalan Tutong, outside of the main tourist drag so you either have to get a taxi or bus. Buses number 1 and 22 leave from the main bus terminal and pass the mosque.

The largest mosque in Brunei, it was built in 1992 to celebrate the 25th year of the current Sultan's reign. If I were to give a single adjective to the two mosques that we saw there, I would say that the Omar Ali mosque is graceful while the Jame' mosque is magnificent. And splendorous. Make it two adjectives. The grounds are extensive, with marble-covered courtyards and fountains. The mosque itself is dominated by four terrazo-tiled minarets and golden domes (the Bruneians love their gold).

To enter the mosque, you would be given a set of robes and also would have to leave your bags in one of the lockers. The black marble flooring felt cold under my feet as I walked to the prayer halls. I would have gotten lost in the maze-like corridors were it not for directions from one of the staff.
The prayer halls are vast, adorned with more marbles and tiles and the carvings of the Quranic verses.
If this is how the mosque is, I cannot imagine how grand the Palace is. The gold-plated taps and bathroom fixtures are not mere rumours then.

The minarets of Jame' Asr Hassanil Bolkiah mosque

Water features on the extensive grounds

Entrance to the mosque compound

4) Gorging on ambuyat

A dish can hardly be considered as a tourist attraction. But this is no ordinary dish - it is the national dish of Brunei and when you see what it is, you will understand why it was in my to-do list.

This dish is derived from the interior trunk of the sago palm. It is a starchy bland substance that looked more in place in a kindergarten's arts and crafts room than on a dining table. The set that we ordered came with spicy condiments, fried fish and two beef and vegetable dishes. I braced myself, scooped a chunk of ambuyat using the candas (a chopstick-like wooden tool) provided, dipped it in the condiment and popped it in my mouth. And hey, it did not taste that bad. The spiciness of the condiment sort of complemented the bland gooey taste of the ambuyat. But still, it was far from being included in my Favourite Food Around The World list.

We had this ambuyat eating experience in Aminah Arif Restaurant (the most classic Malay name and apparently one of the best places to have ambuyat in Brunei) Tutong branch. It was a walking distance from the Jame' mosque but  we had to cross a main road and it was sooo hot that it was no wonder that we were the only people walking. The set for 2 cost BND16.

5) Royal Regalia Museum

After our ambuyat lunch, we got a cab to this museum mainly because it was just across the road from our hotel and the entrance was free. As its name suggests, the museum showcases the life of the current Sultan of Brunei, His Majesty Paduka Seri Baginda Sultan Haji Hassanal Bolkiah Mu‘izzaddin Waddaulah (phew). It also acts as a repository for the gifts and tributes offered from other Heads of States and dignitaries. Looking at the exhibits, it was like a competition on who could be more extravagant, but I don't envy those who have to think on what to give one of the richest men in the world.

Photography is not allowed except for in the foyer where the centerpiece was the Royal Chariot used during the procession around town at the Sultan’s accession to the throne in 1967.

Royal Chariot

6) Yayasan Sultan Haji Hassanal Bolkiah Complex

We took another walk to this area in the evening. The Yayasan is the largest shopping mall in Brunei with Hua Ho Department Store as its anchor tenant. The home department of the latter looked like King Midas had just run amok in it. Again, the Bruneians love their gold.

The mall was deserted at 6.30pm and we figured it was because of Maghrib prayers (they even had Quran recital in the background). Then it was 8pm...and still it was more or less the same. This was the biggest shopping mall in Brunei on a Sturday night and it felt like Kuala Lumpur's Pertama Complex at 10am. I came to the conclusion that Bruneians love 1) Gold and 2) Family time at home.

Conclusion:

So was it worth making a trip to BSB?  Was Brunei boring? Sort of and not really. BSB is small and the  number of things you can see and do is admittedly limited but any place that holds fast to its tradition and values and which does not sell its soul to bring in the tourists gets my votes any time.   

And if you had time to spare, unlike us, there's always the Ulu Temburong National Park for the real Borneo rainforest experience.

Brunei - The search of the proboscis monkeys

As far as our 5 year-od son was concerned, travelling to Brunei was all about the proboscis monkeys. He was talking about it for days before we left for Brunei. It was a sentiment that I also shared. The proboscis monkey is an endangered species and can only be found in Borneo. Whilst you normally would have to go to national parks and wildlife parks to see them in Malaysia and Indonesia, in Brunei a short boat trip from the jetty in the middle of Bandar Seri Begawan can almost guarantee sightings.

A couple of considerations to make:

1) Timing

The monkeys are the most active early in the morning and a couple of hours before sunset, the latter to feed before nightfall. We went at 5pm (on our first day in BSB) when the heat was more bearable.

 

2) Ways to do it

Many tour companies offer a River Safari tour to see the proboscis monkeys in BSB. I have seen a couple of tours costing upwards of RM200 per person.

Alternatively, you can just stand at the jetty next to Kaisen Restaurant and I can promise you that at least 2 water taxis will come and offer to take you on a tour. We got ours for BND40 - for a trip to see the monkeys as well as Kampung Ayer floating village - on a (very clean) wooden boat with an overhead shelter. I think there were lifejackets, but we brought Snufkin's own child-sized one.


The search for the proboscis monkeys

The boat sped down Brunei River away from the city. Soon we lost sights of evidence of human settlements. There was something very tranquil in the way our boat glided over the water with mangroves and thick riverine forests on our sides. I thought that it was amazing the way you could be surrounded with such lush greenery only minutes after you left the city centre. You would be hard-pressed to find this in other capital cities.

Our boatman scanned the trees for the proboscis monkeys. It was just our (lack of) luck that they were not as easy to locate that evening. Eventually we saw another boat parked at the riverbank, with its occupants all looking upwards. We joined them and saw, high up in the trees, a small group of the primates with their strange and bulbous noses and astonishingly long tails. Alas, our camera was not of the sophisticated type and hence the few lousy shots:


A rear view shot of the Proboscis monkey

Spot the monkey

What's funnier than the above lousy shots was that Snufkin fell asleep on the boat as we were trying to locate the monkeys. I did wake him up when we saw the group of the proboscis monkeys but after a minute he fell asleep again. So for all his excitement and anticipation of going to Brunei to see this particular species of primates, all he could remember was a few groggy moments of looking at the rear of a couple of proboscis monkeys.
 
As far as nature-related attraction goes, I think it's important to manage your expectations. I was hoping to see more proboscis monkeys at closer range but alas, this was no Disneyland. The monkeys were at their natural habitat and could very well be anywhere. We did see other species of wildlife - huge monitor lizard, herons, egrets, long-tailed macaques, other unidentifiable birds and even a crocodile. Our boat driver told us that the crocodiles in the Brunei River do not eat human beings as they have enough food supply. I was not sure I believed him.


Spot the monitor lizard

A lone egret

Our boat then made its way towards Kampong Ayer (directly translated to Water Village). This is a group of villages contructed on stilts over the Brunei River, connected by plankways and foot-bridges. They have their own school, restaurants, police station, fire station and even a museum.


Kampong Ayer Cultural and Tourism Gallery

Whilst referrring to it as the "Venice of the East" might be stretching it too far, I learnt that the Water Village is special in its own way as it has been around for over 1,300 years and that it is populated by more than 30,000 people, which is roughly 10% of the country's total population. In a way, it reminded me of the floating village on Tonle Sap, Cambodia, only that Brunei's Kampong Ayer is not is not as squalid and poverty-stricken as it enjoys modern amenities including satellite television, air conditioning, plumbing and electricity.


Villagers making their way to a wedding



Older houses in the village

Some of the newer houses -most are air-conditioned

After zig-zagging our way through the water villages, soon it was time to return. Snufkin woke up as soon as the boat docked at the jetty and his first question was "Why was the boat ride so short?". He slept for most part of the 1.5-hours tour and obviously did not see much of the proboscis monkeys. I later bought him a proboscis monkey cuddly toy as a souvenir of Brunei - that was probably the only time he could see a proboscis monkeys in all its elongated-appendage-glory.

 



Our boat making its way home



Miri to Brunei Overland

When I mentioned to friends that we were travelling to Brunei, I was usually met with looks of incredulity. Almost no one could understand why we had to go to Brunei when there's so many other countries that we could go to.

My reasoning was clear (at least to me). Brunei is one of our neighbouring countries. It's just there across the border and it would seem like a travesty if we bypassed Brunei in our quest to increase country stamps in our passports. And getting to see the proboscis monkeys in their native land cinched the deal.

As flights to Bandar Seri Begawan ("BSB") were expensive, we tried to explore other options. I was seriously contemplating the overland trail between Kota Kinabalu and Brunei. Apparently it takes at least 8 passport stamps (that was enough to get me hyperventilating) but it would take 8 - 10 hours and I thought it would be unfair to subject Snufkin to that. Another option would be to take a bus from Miri. A faster and more reasonable way than KK-Brunei, and much cheaper than flying straight to BSB.

So that was how we found ourselves in Miri. After spending a day and a night in Miri, we woke up early the next morning to catch the 8.15am bus to BSB. A pre-booked taxi was waiting outside the hotel to take us to Pujut Bus Terminal.

I believe bus tickets can only be bought at the ticket counter at the terminal. I was initially worried if the seats would be sold out as we did not buy the tickets in advance. It turned out that the only problem that we had was which seat to choose - We were 3 out of less than 10 passengers on the (very clean) PHLS Express bus, which also meant that we could recline our seats without worrying about people seated at the back.

The PHLS Express bus from Miri to BSB

The bus left right in time and soon we were leaving Miri behind and reaching the Sungai Tujuh Immigration Complex. There's something about border crossing that always gets me excited. Perhaps it's the knowledge that you are entering a totally different territory to explore, and unlike travels by plane, you can see literally see 2 countries side by side.

We got off the bus at Sungai Tujuh to get our passpport stamped for our exit from Malaysia. This was a quick process as there was just our bus. Then back on the bus and on through No Man's Land, that patch of land between Malaysia and Brunei, which looked more like a ghost town. 






Sungai Tujuh immigration checkpoint

We then reached the immigration complex on the Brunei side. There were other vehicles this time, more notably 2 express buses which probably were on the way from other parts of Malaysian Borneo. The queue to get our passports stamped this time was longer, but still less than 1/2 hour.

Upon entering Brunei, I could immediately see the difference. Whilst the road in Miri was flanked by scrublands and industrial buildings, Brunei was very green. I caught glimpses of the Borneo that I had in mind as we passed verdant jungles, lush fields and orchards. I suppose that logging was the last thing on their agenda considering the black gold that the country was sitting on. Signs of the oil economy of the country were everywhere, as below:

"Nodding Donkey" in the most obscure of places

Apart from the above, for most of the journey, we didn't see much else except for some modest shoplots and houses that made up the townships, most notably Serian, Tutong and Kuala Belait.


All signboards are in 2 scripts: Roman and "Jawi"

After nearly 4 hours, more pages of colouring book completed by Snufkin, and even more "are we there yets", we reached the capital BSB. The bus dropped us near the bus terminal on Jalan Cator, from which it was a 15-minutes walk to our hotel.

The walk from the bus terminal to the hotel

Accommodation

Accommodation options in BSB were rather limited. Against our usual aversion towards chain hotels, we booked a room in Radisson Hotel. At BND100 (approx. RM260) per night, I thought it was a really good value of money, especially when there seemed to be a dearth of reasonably-priced boutique hotels in BSB.

The room was bright with one of the nicest beds we've had in hotels. If you are travelling with kids, the pools are a big plus point: a great place for the kids to cool themselves with even free ice-cream thrown in the deal.

Trust me, when you are in BSB, you need a decent hotel with a pool as you will no doubt spend your afternoons in the hotel to escape from the scorching heat. As we did.

Radisson Bandar Seri Begawan

Note:

Buses leave Miri's Pujut Bus Terminal for BSB'S Bus Terminal at Jalan Cator. BND18/RM40 for the 4-hours journey.

Radisson BSB - Address: Jalan Tasek 2203, Bandar Seri Begawan BS8211, Brunei

Miri, Sarawak - The oil town of Malaysia

After our Guah Niah trip, we were too tired to do anything else except head to the hotel to check-in. But on the way to Miri city centre, looking at the map, I realised that the road leading up to Canada Hill was just opposite our hotel area.

Malaysia's first oil well (Miri Well No. 1) is situated on top of Canada Hill, a limestone ridge overlooking Miri City. Now affectionately known as the Grand Old Lady, it began production in 1910 and produced 660,000 barrels of oil until it was shut down in 1972. I figured then that we should make a quick detour just to see this monument that was instrumental in according Miri as the oil town of Malaysia. After all, we still had the rented car.

Canada Hill in the evening was full of locals exercising - jogging, cycling, playing football. The area around the Grand Old Lady was deserted though. We spent a short time there taking photos of the monument and the Nodding Donkey next to it. To be fair, there was nothing much else to do as the Petroleum Museum (which we had planned to see) was closed.

Walking towards the oil well monument

The Grand Old Lady - Malaysia's first oil well

Replica of oil driller

We then walked towards the back of the museum where we found a vantage point overlooking Miri city and the South China Sea at the distance. The sun was setting, a good way to end our day in Miri.


Watching the sun set over Miri city

Finally, we headed to the hotel which was only 5 minutes away. Let's just say that there's nothing boutique about M Boutique Inn. This hotel is part of a row of shoplots. The room that we got is best described as no-frills. The cleanliness could be improved, especially when there was a large spot of damp and mould stain on one of the walls which I tried to block with  a chair. I was too tired to ask for a change of room.

But we couldn't really complain as it cost only RM129 for a room with 1 double bed and 1 single bed. We were looking for a budget hotel anyway.

Entrance to our hotel

Its redeeming quality is the close proximity to Bintang Megamall (3-minutes walk away) from which you could buy food from one of the many fast food joints or kopitiams. Especially useful when all you wanted to do was to have a TV dinner in the comfort of your hotel room, and then curl up on the bed nursing your aching feet.

 

Gua Niah, Sarawak - The making of a spelunker

While planning for our Miri-Brunei trip, I toyed with the idea of going to Niah Cave but somehow the idea was binned as I was not sure whether it would be suitable for a child. My biggest worry was the long walk from the entrance of the park to the cave itself. I trawled the net looking for other people's experience with kids but could not find any.

So we flew to Miri with only a loose itinerary to visit Canada Hill and the Petroleum Museum. At Miri Airport, while looking for taxi to take us to the town centre, there were lots of posters on Gua Niah and Gua Mulu which got us to think that it would be a sin to be in Miri without going to one of the caves. We saw the car rental desk at one corner and the rest, as they say, is history.

Our car was an old-ish Proton Saga rented for RM180 for the day. I thought it was quite expensive but by that time I was already hooked with the idea of Gua Niah. Then, it was off to a convenience store in the airport to get some supplies for our last minute caving trip - bottled water, buns, chocolates, snacks, torchlight. Alas, we could not find any shops selling shoes (at least for Snufkin) so all three of us had to be content with the slippers that we were wearing!

The journey to Niah National Park, based on directions from the car rental guy and signboards, took us close to two hours. 

1) Niah National Park headquarters

Entrance tickets costing RM10 can be bought here. You also need to register your names in and out. When we registered, there were only around 5 other names in the log and that was already past 12pm.

At the entrance of the Niah National Park Headquarters

Niah National Park map

2) Sungai Niah crossing

This is where you would need to take a boat ride to the other side of the river. It cost RM1 one-way per person - I have read some complaints on these extra charges but it's only RM1 and it provides extra employement opportunities to the villagers.

The journey took all of 2 minutes. You can swim of course, but be mindful of the crocodiles.

Crossing the crocodile-infested Niah River

A short walk after the crossing was the Archeology Museum and a shop selling drinks and basic supplies (torchlights can be rented here for RM10).

3) Trek to the caves

This was the part that I dreaded most. I was not sure how Snufkin would take the 3.5km walk to the caves, in the caves and another 3.5km back to the carpark. He was not even 5 after all. If your kids are still using strollers/pushchairs, I would recommend bringing one of the lightweight ones (this could be "parked" at the bottom of the staircase right before the caves). At least it would help to conserve their energy before the walk in the caves itself.

The trek to the caves was via a raised plankwalk enclosed on both sides by dense primary rainforest. In many parts, giant trees (including tapang trees) provided the much needed shade. We walked under the green canopy, crossed wooden bridges over mendearing streams and trickling brooks, with the chorus of birds chirping and insect sounds in the background.

Snufkin's main source of entertainment was the bright red milipedes. We made it into a game: "Count the milipedes". He got 20 easily. He also found himself a stick, purportedly to fend off elephants, tigers and jungle bandits.

The trek seemed never-ending. I nearly gave up until I saw the Iban stalls selling souvenirs and snacks. From here, it was a short walk to the rickety staircase that led to Traders' Cave. We had already walked for close to one hour.

The route from the park headquarters to the caves

Some of the red millipedes that we saw along the way

4) Traders' Cave

The stairs leading to Traders' Cave

This cave was used by the local merchants as a trading spot for the swiftlet birdnests and guano, hence the name. What remained from those heady days of trading were just falling structures of the huts and sheds erected by the birdnest traders and which was used up until the late 70's.

It was cool in the cave, a respite from the tropical heat. We spent some time there cooling ourselves with nature's air-conditioning system, admiring the huge and impressive stalactites on the roof of the cave.

At the far end is the staircase leading to the Great Cave

To get to the Great Cave from here, we ascended another set of rickety and steep staircase (cobweb-ridden - so I was squinting my eyes all the way), then walked a short distance on a plankwalk along the limestone wall and then were rewarded with the sight of the spectacular West Mouth entrance of the Great Cave.

5) The Great Cave

This is the main cave within the Niah cave complex. It is a vast cave consisting of many chambers connected by narrow passageways. Standing near the West Mouth entrance, the hugeness of the  high-ceilinged chamber that we were standing in was jaw-dropping. You could easily build a whole village here.

The main inhabitants are bats and swiflets, the products of which (birdnest and guano) are a source of the local economy. We could hear the squeaking sound of the bats and even saw a few swooping around near the roof of the cave. The game "Count the millipedes" turned to "Count the bats".

Niah cave is also one of the most  important archeological sites in the world. The oldest modern human remains discovered in Southeast Asia were found here in this very cave by a team led by Tom Harrison, then a curator in the Sarawak Museum. The site of the fenced archeological digs could be seen towards the left as we walked to the other side of the cave.      

My little spelunker

West Mouth entrance of the cave

The house that Tom Harrison stayed in while researching the site

Doing his own archeological dig.

Background: The stairs leading to the inner chambers



Stalactites galore

6) The looong trek back

There were more flights of wooden stairs towards the back of the cave, leading to more chambers. It was time for us to turn back to the same route that we came. We did not want to risk going to the pitch-dark chambers wearing only slippers.

Now, if you are training for weightlifting, I would suggest a trip to Gua Niah with a young child. There is a high probability that you have to carry the child on the way back. We had to. Snufkin begged to be carried and he looked so tired that we did not have any choice but to take turns and carry all 18kg of him . To me, it was a combination of pass the baton, endurance race and mind control. To say I was knackered at the end of the trek would be an understatement.

But it was a trip worth making. It was Snufkin's first caving-related experience and he enjoyed walking in the cave with the torchlight and his "staff", looking for bats. And I got to be reminded again on the difference beteween stalactites and stalacmites.

Note:

Park headquarters opening hours: 9.00am to 5.30pm.
Entrance fees: RM10 (free for kids under 6).
Boat ride:RM1 per person per way for 9.00am to 5.00pm, RM1.50 for 5.00pm to 7.00pm.

Gua Niah day tours  from Miri are available for around RM200 but it can easily be done on your own (just follow the plankways). You'll save a lot too.

Best places to eat with kids in Cambodia

I'm pretty sure that there's no shortage of good food in Cambodia but we don't take meat while on holidays and hence our options were limited to seafood-based or vegetarian meals. Being a pescetarian in Cambodia was not too difficult as the Mekong River ensured constant supply of seafood. However, having had the same dishes over and over again, there were moments when I could not stomach another plate of rice with fish/squid/prawn, kampot green pepers notwithstanding. Snufkin too is a not a rice person so and there was no way that I could persuade him to try fish amok.

But all was not lost. As in Laos, Cambodia has its share of bakeries and restaurants serving Western/fusion food suitable for kids who prefer their comfort food.

Here's three of our favourites:

1) Blue Pumpkin

 
The Blue Pumpkin is an all-in-one french bakery, patisserie, ice-cream parlour and restaurant. They have several outlets in Siem Reap but the one we frequented was the one on Sivatha Street, just a couple of minutes walk from our hotel. The restaurant also had a nice set-up, with day-beds on which you can lounge the afternoon away.

The first food that I had there was their goi cuon springrolls (with shrimp and vegetable filling, served with hoi sin sauce). It tasted homemade and fresh - I was hooked. Snufkin's favourite was the margherita pizza, and of course, the ice-cream. There's a lot of other options for kids and adults alike, both Western and Asian (including Khmer) food. Suffice to say that most of Snufkin's meal in Siem Reap came from Blue Pumpkin.

So if you're wondering what to eat in Siem Reap and do not feel adventurous enough to try the Cambodian street food, then this is a good place to start.

My staple food in Seam Reap



2) Kaya Cafe

We came across this place by accident. We had been walking in the Old Market area in Siem Reap for ages and was looking for a place to sit down and have coffee. Kaya Cafe was chosen because it had the least crowd - in fact, there were no customers at all when we got there. I later got to know that it was just recently opened (by the same people who owned Senteurs d'Angkor) so probably that explained the lack of customers at that time.

We ordered mango sorbet for Snufkin, iced coffee, passionfruit smoothie and a Khmer dessert which was a mixture of steamed banana, grated coconut and palm sugar. These are common ingredients in Malaysia but that dessert I had in Kaya Cafe tasted out of this world. It has got to be the perfect texture of the banana and the freshness of the ingredients, especially the palm sugar. I am salivating as I write this.

This cafe would be one of my main reasons for any repeat visit to Siem Reap.



Photo credit: Kaya Spa & Cafe

 

3) Le Jardin Restaurant

 

This restaurant in Phnom Penh has got to be the one of the most kids-family restaurants that I have ever come across. I just wish that we have something like this in Malaysia.

You can enjoy your food while your kids run loose in the sandpit/treehouse area. I have written a bit more about this place here.

And of course, at the end of the day, there's always the banana and nutella pancake that you can get from one of the carts!

Siem Reap, Cambodia - Things to do for free

Siem Reap can be quite expensive once you have factored in the entrance tickets to Angkor Wat and the tour to Tonle Sap. Most of the things are priced in USD so if you are coming from a country with a weaker currency than USD (like us) and want to watch your spending, here's a couple of things that you can do for free:

1) Artisans Angkor

We went to the workshop of Artisans Angkor for want of something to do the evening of the day we went to Angkor Wat. It was located a couple of blocks behind our hotel (Apsara Centropole) and easy enough to locate using the map in the Lonely Planet guidebook.

The Angkor Wat and its surrounding temples, with its intricate carvings, statues and bas-reliefs, are a testament to the greatness of Khmer arts and crafts. Artisans Angkor strives to preserve and revive many of these traditional and ancient Khmer skills, e.g. silk-making, stone and wood carving, lacquering and painting. At the same time, it helps young, rural people with limited education opportunities to obtain professional skills and to improve their lives.

At the workshop, you would be allocated a guide for free, who would show you the various workshops in which young craftsmen were busy producing items for sale. A word of warning if your kids are asthmatic: some of the rooms were very dusty and may not be suitable.



A woodcarver in action

One of the popular items in the showroom - elephants carved out of woods

  

Some of the finished products

 

A craftsman working on a reproduction of an Angkorian era statue

At the end of the tour, we went to the boutique / showroom where the items produced by the craftsmen were on sale. The prices were rather expensive but the quality was top-notch, nothing like the tourist tat that flooded the Old Market. If you want to go shopping in Seam Reap for souvenirs for yourself or people back home, then this is the place to shop. And there was an ice-cream shop at the back to deposit your kids (with someone to watch over of course) should you want to feel less like having a bull in a china shop.

My only regret that day was not having the time to go on the free guided tour to the Angkor Silk Farm. The tour on mulberry trees cultivation, silkworm farming, cocoon unwinding and silk making would no doubt be very educational.

 

2) Senteurs d'Angkor

 

The night before we left Seam Reap, while having a break at Kaya Cafe, we came across an outlet of Senteurs d'Angkor which was just next door to the cafe (both are in fact sister companies). I fell in love with the frangipani-scented products and was even more attracted to see the items that I bought came in eco-friendly packaging made from weaved sugar palm leaves.

 

The next morning, we took a tuk-tuk from our hotel and squeezed in a visit to the workshop to see how the products were made. The workshop was in a beautiful colonial villa and the guided tour was free. Although it was just a short tour, it was a good introduction to show kids how soap and candles were made.

 

Entrance to the workshop



Sugar palm leaves are dried, dyed and then weaved into boxes called

"smoks"which are used as eco-frindly packaging

Bars of coconut oil-based handmade soaps - All made from

extracts derived from plant oils and 100 % natural ingredients

The making of aromatic candles

After the tour, we proceeded into the shop. I am not usually into shopping in my travels but in this case, I felt like buying everything - perfumed massage oils, body creams, body scrubs, handmade soap, bath salts. All was beautifully packaged in a rustic way and came in a range of scent which included jasmine, orchid, cinnamon, lemongrass, green tea, mango, lotus, orange and of course frangipani. You could also buy locally produced/grown food like Cambodian spices, Kampot pepper, coffee from Ratanakiri, wild honey and mango jam.

I asked Snufkin to pick something for him to buy and he chose a set of mini elephant-shaped soap, which to this day still stays in its packaging.



The shop with the nicest smell ever

Outside, you could also get free coffee or buy fresh sugar cane juice for USD1.

The products are reasonably priced. Best of all, they are not "made in China" as its raw ingredients and packaging materials are mostly sourced within Cambodia, so you will be supporting the local industry.

As a disclaimer, I would have to say that the above tours are free as they are probably banking on you to buy their products at the end of the tours. But you don't have to buy - just go for the tours and get yourself acquainted with Cambodian arts and crafts.

My only problem now is how to get a constant supply of the frangipani products from Malaysia!


Note:
Artisans Angkor - Address: Chantiers-Ecoles, Stung Thmey Street, Siem Reap 855500, Cambodia; Opening hours: 8.00 am – 5:00 pm (boutique closes at 5.30pm)

 

Free shuttle bus to the Angkor Silk Farm departs daily from the workshop at 9.30am and 1.30pm.
 

Senteurs d'Angkor - Address: No. 145, National Road No 6, Krous Village, Sangkat Svay Dangkum (Airport Road); Opening hours: 7.30 am - 5.30 pm daily